Day 7: The "Car-dash-ians" do Haiti: Bodyguards, paparazzi and shopping.

After such a full and emotional day on Sunday, it was nice to lounge around a little bit this morning before our adventure. Clark showed up at the Villa with news that the bus was broken, so we would have to wait for a while. (I wrote about Pastor's driving yesterday- so you put two and two together.) So we lounged in the pool and visited with Clarke until the bus showed up. It was a wonderful way to start this perfect day.


The bus arrived around 10:30 with Claude in the driver's seat (praise the lord! lol) The plan was to take a scenic drive up to the top of a mountain with an overlook of Port-au-Prince. Rob had been there once before and remembered it having gorgeous views and souvenir shops at the top. Pastor brought along our friends/chaperon/bodyguards for the trip to make sure we were safe. We joked that he must have had a meeting with them, assigning two Americans to each of them. I was really happy that they could come with us. Yesterday I spoke with our Haitian friends about our plan to go up the mountain, and NONE of them had been up to the top of the mountains. None of them. I joked with Ernst, "I have been in Haiti one week and I made it to the top- and you've lived here for 34 years- and never did."

[I wonder if it is cost prohibitive or just not something you do.]

I am completely fascinated with this city, staring out the windows like a little kid. One week has transformed my eyes and heart. Our journey took us through the varied landscape of Haiti, both physically and socio-economically. We drove past the tent cities and the huge open market. A week has given us perspective. The tent cities are completely different from where we have been staying. Our Haitian friends live better than this, because of the support of St. Paul's church.

Signs of progress are everywhere. Today I noticed a big rig clearing the main canal and the huge billboards advertising the future waterfront development project. It looks like a typical American restaurant, shops and hotel complex- I wonder when it will be complete. Now I wonder about the displacement of the nearby tent city- where will those people go? Why do they still live there, in such poor conditions? What does the future hold?

As we turned the corner and began driving up-hill the changes in social class were clearly evident. The streets got smoother and eventually paved with proper medians. The shops that lined the street transformed from food lying on the street to modern kiosks to glass store-fronts. Traffic went from disorganized congestion to orderly traffic flow with proper passing distance between vehicles. Architecture gradually got larger and was well maintained. There was still some rubble, but there were also more, larger, impressive structures. The streets were lined with the same bougainvillea flowers cover fences and walls, but here they give the area a very European look. This area of Haiti reminds me of Spain, with the flowers and housing built into the hillside.

Claude parked the bus at a very large, modern gas station where Pastor had arranged a Tap-Tap rental. As we waited for it to arrive, we were swarmed by vendors pushing drinks and snacks at our windows. There were also armed police men surrounding our bus which would have created a sense of fear, but we had Clark and the gang to keep us safe. When the tap-tap arrived, the driver backed it up right to the bus door and actually swept it out and wiped down the benches. Rob couldn’t believe that they were taking such special care of us. Claude opened the doors and we were ushered into the tap-tap and our bodyguards took the positions by the door. As a surprise, brother Evens showed up, making our group complete. Pastor bought us all ice-cold sodas from a vendor and we were on our way.

Breathtaking Vistas

Riding in a tap-tap is an authentic Haitian experience, though we traveled through more organized traffic, not the congestion of Courerfour. The open air ride in close proximity to our friends made this ride even better. As we climbed the winding mountain road the temperatures dropped. I sat in awe, staring out the windows- taking it all in. Haiti is utterly gorgeous. Bright bougainvillea draped over the road like gems on this royal landscape. The homes in these hills remind me of the Spanish and Italian hills. The architecture varies but there were some massive homes in European fashion set among the green hills--at one point we even saw a castle.

At the top of the mountain colorful paintings lined the street leading to a very beautiful, modern restaurant. We hopped out of the tap-tap and walked out to an empty terrace over-looking the city. Photographs will never capture the beauty of this place and this moment. From our vantage point we could see the entire city of Port-au-Prince and the harbor that gives Haiti its distinct shape. The smoke and dust hung in the area, providing a hazy, dream like appearance.

Sharing this experience in a beautiful location with our new friends, both American and Haitian, I fell in love a little today. Wonder filled our eyes, laughter filled the air and friendship filled our hearts. It is a moment I will never forget.

Shopping:

Tracie and I were in heaven walking through art avenue. It was like being in a museum- except the canvases hung on the stone wall or lay on the ground. Oh- and then there are the vendors constantly pushing their jewelry, woodwork or paintings at the American tourists. The group meandered along this street, with our Haitian bodyguards/chaperons close at hand.

The quality of the artistic talent and craftsmanship here is amazing. I wish I could have purchased many paintings, but I found “The One” and will settle with that for now. We negotiated the price down to half of his original price, rolled it up and kept walking. Tracie and I went into a small gallery, admiring the work. I asked Evens if he had paintings like this in his house and he said no. I asked Ernst and he said no. Hmm… Pastor Widelson’s house was decorated with art- so I was curious.

Everyone else was still shopping, so as we slowly made our way back to the tap-tap, I asked people to pick out their favorite paintings. Ernst picked a market scene that I had considered buying. Evens chose musical instruments (of course.) Mardoche pointed out a geometric piece and Pastor chose a village scene. They were all very beautiful and it was interesting to see their choices. I told Ernst and Evens that we should have made paintings for their walls this week instead of coloring with the little kids the whole time- and they just laughed.

Unfortunately we couldn't stay at the top of the mountain all day. We drove back down to the city and laughter flooded the tap-tap. Pastor took us to another small tourist market by the port where the group purchased more souvenirs. (I won’t spoil the surprises for you, though.) The constant pushing of the products is stressful for me. We were in a narrow alley and couldn't really move forward or backward. It got to be too much for Syd and a few of us, so we made a break for it and waited outside the market with Evens and Kisnier. However, the vendors followed us out there too. It actually wasn't too bad in comparison to other markets I've been too, but after a long week it was overwhelming. Clearly having a big yellow school bus full of Blancs draws attention. They think we are tourists… Sydney said it was like being a Khardashian, the way they are swarmed all the time by the paparazzi when they go shopping. Kinda.



The Villa

It was much later than we thought it was, so we went straight back to the villa. Everyone was starting to wind down- and some kind parting words were taking place and some laughter among friends. The awkward phase of the day had begun. Good-byes are hard.

Our vendor friends were outside the villa with our requested items (secret for now) and then everyone came inside. To delay the goodbyes and thank them for all the work we put them through today, we set up an impromptu “pool party” bringing out all the Deli-Mart treats (American junk food) and sodas to a patio table. It was relaxing, hanging out with everyone. It was kind of quiet- the Haitians were speaking Creole to each other and we were talking to each other- so I pulled a teacher move. I asked everyone to share their personal highlight of our week together.

Darlene: “The concert and the guest singer.”

Lori: “The drumstick lesson, recorders and ‘Jesus Loves Me.”
Mardoche: “The whole week.”
Ernst: “Everything- the whole week.”
Kisnier: “Same.”
Kharinsky: “Same.”
Clark: “Same.”
I interject here, with Sharon’s support- saying that boys in our classes do this too. I jokingly called them cheaters.
Ernst: “Okay- Sarah’s flute solo and Sharon and Adam’s song.”
Evens: “The first day to today.” Boys….ugh.
Sydney: “The mountain view today.”
Adam: “The view today and the feast at Mrs. Marcellus’ house.”
Tracie: “My creole lessons with Kisner”
Sarah: “Taking photos with all the kids.”
Sharon: “Seeing Ernst’s face as we unloaded all the instruments.”
Lacy: “Looking over the city with you today.”

We toasted to, "A beautiful country and beautiful new friends. As we clinked the glass soda bottles we discovered that "Cheers" is "Cheers" in Creole and English. Perfect.

That broke the ice a bit but then it was time for our friends to leave. Hugs and hand-shakes. Teary eyes. We will see a few of them tomorrow on the way to the airport, but not everyone. Good-byes are hard and awkward. Lori commented that this picnic by the pool was a nicer way to say good-bye than getting dropped off on the street. True. Heather insisted that saying good-byes are not hard, but I added, “Good-byes should hurt. They hurt because it mattered.” And she teared up.

Last night in Haiti

Our last dinner at the villa was RICE and Beans! Our new favorite food. Then everyone hopped in the pool. I ducked away to write this blog and as I type laughter is emanating from the pool. Some are reviewing the photos from the day. Things are winding down and it is clear that we have grown closer on this trip.

Travel changes you. Relationships change you. Haiti changes you.